AC Les Baux-de-Provence, Château Romanin, La Chapelle de Romanin, Provence, France. 2003. 13%. Biodynamic

 

The Les Baux-de-Provence region is dominated by the Alpilles (the little Alps) of western Provence. This range of serrated naked limestone overlooks the Rhône and Durance rivers of southern France. The spectacular mountain scenery here is dotted with villages that appear to have been carved out of bare tormented rock, basking under clear blue skies. On the lower slopes of the Alpilles is the town of Saint Rémy. Here Vincent Van Gogh committed himself to a mental hospital in 1889 and painted Starry Night, one of his most iconic depictions. Here too are olive groves, almonds, cypress trees and lavender – all this makes Les Baux a special place and a honey pot for tourists.

 

Les Baux is a special place for vines too. A tiny enclave with appellation status granted only in 1995, it measures just 345 hectares in total area and has but a dozen wine producers. Yet in this unique terroir virtually all the winegrowers employ biodynamic methods and the rest are organic. This situation will be developed further still - biodynamics is expected to become enshrined in local wine law and Les Baux will be the first place to make any other winegrowing practices illegal.

 

So natural winegrowing is the norm here, aided and abetted by the local microclimate. The cold Mistral wind dries the vines and keeps them free of fungal diseases, so there is no need to use agrochemicals. The land is parched and scrubby – garrigue - yet the soils retain enough moisture from the brief spring and autumn rains to keep the vines quenched during the summer heat.

 

Château Romanin is a former Castle and one of the biggest estates in Les Baux. It has 54 hectares of vines given over to seven red grape varieties (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Carignan, Cinsault, Counoise and Cabernet Sauvignon). There is a further 4 hectares of white Rolle and Ugni Blanc. The property is newly owned by Anne-Marie and Jean-Louis Charmolüe, ex-owners of the prestigious Château Montrose in Bordeaux, who will doubtless take the estate to new heights in the years ahead.

 

Full biodynamic practices have been practiced here since 1989. This includes farming by the lunar calendar as well as using homeopathic treatments in the vineyard. The estate is also biodynamically certified by Demeter and Biodyvin.

 

La Chapelle de Romanin can be considered the entry-level red wine in the range yet comes in a very smartly packaged bottle. Made from the fruit of the younger vines, all seven red varieties are used. This is a cuvée that sees no oak at all and indeed Château Romanin proclaim that,

 

“We refuse the diktat of wood and condemn the standardisation of tastes.”

 

Marvellous, but what does it taste like?

 

Pouring reveals a real density of colour, a deep ruby hue with a crimson edging. The wine was initially closed and really needed a few minutes in the glass to unfurl, so decanting might open it up quicker. This is also a good idea if you intend to keep it as it may throw sediment over time because the wine has not been filtered.

 

Certainly the Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre come through on the nose and dominate the blend. There are wafts of violets, plum and red berry fruit plus some earthy aromas.

 

 

 

The palate is rounded and shows red and black fruits and a little black pepper. While the style is a little fruit-forward, this wine is hardly a fruit-bomb; there’s subtlety here, some juicy acidity and a lightness of touch. There are soft tannins, slightly dry and dusty, but none the worse for that. Finally there’s some liquorice and a little spice note lingering on a medium length finish and not a trace of alcoholic heat.

 

A wine of nice harmony, it’s drinking well now and will easily hold over the next 2-3 years but probably won’t improve any further. It can be enjoyed on its own but it is a really good partner for food – a hearty big-flavoured stew would really hit the spot. Don’t forget the herb dumplings. And the crusty bread.