Clos d’Yvigne, Cuvée Nicholas, Patricia Atkinson, AC Bergerac Sec, France, 2004. 13.5%

Back in 1990, Patricia Atkinson and her husband bought a run-down property situated 50 miles east of Bordeaux at Gageac, on the left side of the Dordogne river, between Sainte-Foy-la-Grande and Bergerac. The couple were city types looking to de-stress and chased their dream of a French idyll. Then it went horribly wrong.

The stock market crashed and Patricia’s husband went back to England and did not return, leaving her with little French and no knowledge of winemaking. 16 years on Patricia’s bestselling books, The Ripening Sun and La Belle Saison, tell her story of triumph over adversity; how one tough woman learnt French and winemaking from scratch with the help and support of the local community. Today Clos d'Yvigne has become renowned, her critically acclaimed wines being some of the best produced in Bergerac.

Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc make the red and rosé, while Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon and Muscadelle make dry and sweet whites.

My pick of the Clos d'Yvigne range is an oaked Bergerac Blanc sec, Cuvée Nicholas 2004. This is an unspecified blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon and Muscadelle, very much in nearby Bordeaux’s white Graves style.

In colour it’s a light polished brass. The nose shows off some really nice barrel fermentation and maturation (9 months in oak). Nothing heavy handed here, rather a subtle interplay of toast and vanilla notes with grapefruit and gooseberry. There’s also a honeyed blossom character which I assume derives from Muscadelle.

The palate is dry yet rich, with good texture - the Sémillon brings body and a slight waxiness that is well balanced with Sauvignon Blanc’s crisp acidity. This is a taut yet buxom wine. Blending also brings complexity, as well as the fruit found on the nose there’s an herbaceous note too, while the medium-length finish reprises the careful use of oak.

Drinking nicely now, I imagine this will develop over at least another five years. And try a radical food match – Fish and Chips, assuming you have a really good chippie to hand, I guarantee you won’t be disappointed!

For further information on wine selection and tasting take a look at our client Paul Howard’s website www.winealchemy.com, Paul also kindly supplied the above review.