 Sauvignon Blanc, Tohu, Marlborough, New Zealand, 2005 & 2006, 13.5%
by Paul Howard www.winealchemy.com
Tohu Wines are the first Māori-owned wine company to export wine. They are owned by three Māori organisations and made their first vintage in 1998. Tohu Wines aim to promote to Māori culture (tikanga) and what better way to do this than by exporting New Zealand wines? This ambitious business intends to be a major player in Kiwi wine production. Unashamedly a business, they have ensured that their Māori culture is both respected and embedded in their values. Māori culture is not just a commercial point of difference; it’s more as a way of conducting business.
I first came across Tohu Wines at a New Zealand tasting earlier in 2007. Tohu make a wide range of wines from various New Zealand regions, including Gisborne, Marlborough and Nelson. They have a very good unoaked Chardonnay, Riesling, Merlot and Pinot Noir. However, I was particularly taken with their Sauvignon Blancs and both the 2005 and 2006 vintages are recommended.
Both these vintages are currently available in the UK, both represent excellent quality and value, yet they are distinct from each other stylistically. The principle differences I attribute to vintage variation, with the winemaking adjusted according to the variation brought by each harvest. Although Tohu aim to make wine in volume they certainly don’t skimp on quality winemaking. Simon Waghorne is the winemaker at Tohu – he has a long distinguished track record, including making the multi-award winning and much-fêted Astrolabe.
The Māori themed wine labels are subtly different for each vintage. Although each has the same design, the orange colour on the 2005 is replaced with red for the 2006.
Both are deeply coloured for a Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc – though this is relative – both are a pale silver green, the 2005 being marginally deeper, though it’s a stretch to tell the difference. It’s on the nose and palate where the differences between them show clearly.
The 2005’s nose has a whiff of gooseberry but is dominated by passionfruit and you’ll find a slightly green peapod undertone there too. In contrast the 2006 is a bit fresher and more restrained, with less overt tropical fruit. Instead the profile is more gooseberry, peapod and lime zest.
On the palate the 2005 is full and lush, the 2006 racier and more elegant. Both have good refreshing acidity, but the 2005 is creamier and fuller with bigger fruit. Passionfruit dominates the 2005 before giving way to a long citrus fade. It’s well balanced and while both wines claim to be 13.5% alcohol I have the impression that the 2005 has a smidgeon more alcohol than the 2006. Meanwhile the 2006 is leaner and more focused, swapping some of the lush fruit for a welcome minerality – it’s lighter in texture, a bit more complex and zippy. Perhaps the 2005 has the more instant appeal, the 2006 is more subtle.
The 2005 claimed a silver medal in the prestigious Air New Zealand Awards, while the 2006 was awarded Bronze. Being a contrarian, I have a slight preference for the 2006 because it’s being a little leaner and perhaps a touch more food friendly, but that really is down to personal choice. You may disagree with me and prefer the 2005. Regardless, both are excellent expressions of Marlborough Sauvie and I’m looking forward to the 2007 when released.
It really is a lot of fun to compare both and discover the differences between them yourself. Screwcaps mean it’s easy to try a glass of each and save the rest for later.
These Sauvignon Blancs are not for long keeping, drink both vintages now to take advantage of the fruit – neither will fade tomorrow and screwcaps will help in that respect too, but they won’t improve further.
Both make for a good aperitif. With food they had me thinking about steaming bowls of Kiwi green-lipped mussels or chowder. Alternatively try them with sushi. I tried both these wines with a simple fresh crab pasta which was a stunning combination. Cook some really good quality tagliatelle, then mix in fresh dressed crab meat and season with a few dried chilli flakes – simple.
Wine Rack, £10.99 for a single bottle or £7.32 on a 3 for 2 offer, from branches around the UK including Skipton, Ilkley and York. Available for £8.99 at the New Zealand Wine Distribution Co.
Or online from http://www.nzhouseofwine.co.uk
Those of you with a Makro card can find it stocked there too.
Kia Ora
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